Day 9 - Split to Zagreb, then on to Venice, Italy!

After a wonderful week onboard, I bid farewell to my new friends and the awesome crew and caught a bus right in the Split Harbor. I sat up top...

There were ferry and flight options, but I wanted to see the Croatian interior, visit the city of Zagreb and just relax on board and work on my blog, so I opted for a long bus ride. You may notice today's post is much more detailed!

I hopped on at 7:30AM and leaving Split, we climbed the mountain roads and went through many tunnels. There was lots of farmland, and it was very green outside of the city. Around noon, we stopped for a bus change in Zagreb, the capital of Croatia. I got off, stored my bags and had 2 hours to explore on foot.

A little history of Zagreb... located in the southern foothills of Medvednica mountain, Zagreb developed from two small medieval towns, Kaptol and Gradec. When the hilltop towns originated (in the 11th and 13th centuries, respectively), they were separated by a river. The clergy and cathedral were in Kaptol, while tradespeople and administration were in Gradec.

In 1851, under Governor Ban Josip Jelacic, the towns officially merged into the City of Zagreb. In 1898, the river that separated them was diverted and the riverbed filled in, erasing the distinct line between Kaptol and Gradec. In 1991, when Croatia declared independence from Yugoslavia, Zagreb became the capital of the new country. 

Zagreb is a sprawling modern city, and luckily for me, the bus station is right in the middle, within a 15 minute walk of all the "old city" sights! ;)

The Zagreb Funicular, touted as the shortest in the world, connects the lower and upper town with a 117 foot track. It runs every 10 minutes.

When Gradac became a free royal city in 1242, it was done so with the stipulation that it become fortified with walls, gates and towers. A 13th century remnant, Kula Lotrscak, still exists. A Cannon on the 4th floor fires at noon to synchronize church bell ringers. The tower has been used as a prison, warehouse, fire station and social club.

From there, I passed through Strossmayer Promenade, an east west walkway. The west end is sometimes called Strossmartre as it has a Parisian vibe. An archeological site there has produced some interesting finds.

2 blocks away is Trg Sv Marka, St Marks Square, 13th century. St Mark's Church features a Coat of Arms for Kingdom of Croatia, Slovenia and Dalmation (existed prior to becoming part of Yugoslavia) The 2nd Coat of Arms is for the city of Zagreb.

In the adjacent square is Banski Dvori, Ban’s (Governor’s) Court. Built as a private palace early 1800s, the city’s Bans lived in Banksi Dvori till 1918. The building was used as state offices and today, as the seat of the Croatian Government. Nearby is Sabor, Croatian Parliament/legislative branch, 1730s.

Black Eagle, below, is the oldest pharmacy in the city, dating to 1355.

Above is St. Catherine’s Church, built by Jesuits,1620-1632. It was damaged by an earthquake in 1880. The adjacent Gradec Plateau offers best view in Zagreb!

The Stone Gate below is the only remaining gate of the Gradec city walls. The interior of the gate houses an open-air chapel. A great fire in 1731 destroyed every part of the wooden gate except for the painting of the Virgin and Child, now a pilgrimage site.  

Through the gate is a statue of St. George. He was a Saint & martyr of Zagreb, member of Diocletian’s army, and refused to renounce the Christian faith. He was punished by death.

Nearby is Radvica Street, sloping and lined with shops since the 1800s. Kravi Most Street is the site of “Bloody Bridge” due to past disputes over watermill rights. 

Tkalciceva Street below is a riverbed-turned vibrant, café-lined street. 

Down some stairs, I passed through Opatovina Park, exited and found the historic Church of St. Francis of Assisi, 13^{th century.}  

I then explored the Dolac Market, in use since 1930. It also has an underground market and offers regional fish, meat, cheese and wine.

I could have spent the day there but they closed at 2 pm, and I had a bus to catch. I didn't have time to enjoy the homemade peasant dish, "sir i vrhnje" (cottage cheese), crusty puffed pastry w/fillings ("burek"), local fish and meat dishes ("srdele i ćevapi") or an authentic dessert, served warm ("štrukli"). I did enjoy seeing local chocolates, Dalmatian "pršut" (prosciutto) and Istrian olives. 

Leaving the market, I passed the Zagreb Cathedral. Built in 1094, it was later destroyed and rebuilt a few times, most recently after a 2020 earthquake!

From the church, I walked downhill to Jelacic Square, named for Ban Josip Jelacic (governor honored for ending serfdom in Croatia, responsible for uniting Kaptol & Gradec), Designed in 1641 as a space for fairs/marketplace, its central statue faces south, in a defiant stance against Hungary.  

Mandusevac Fountain, below, sits over a natural spring.

From here, it was back to the bus for a scenic 8 hour drive to Venice. There were only about 10 passengers, which was nice, and the bus was clean, modern and comfortable with Wifi, charging ports and restroom. We crossed through more of the Dinaric Alps, more tunnels and lush green forests. We descended a steep mountain and passed through stunning scenery and a picturesque historic city, Rijeka. I snapped a few pics through the window en route.

 Trieste..

We briefly passed through "serene amd green" Slovenia and a passport check point before entering Italy and stopping in Trieste to drop off/pick up passengers. Lovely city..

The bus arrived in Venice at 9PM, and I checked in, grabbed a quick bite and went to BED! The forecast has changed, and tomorrow should be 75 and sunny! ;)